JIMBORED AND THE LOST CITY OF THE INCA (again) – PERU 2004 – PART V

I have arrived at a place and time, in my mind, where I find myself back in Peru and back in the Andes. The time is late July 2004 and the place is Cusco, Peru. I am sure, by now, my loyal and faithful fans have heard me drone on about Machu Picchu enough times to become completely bored of the subject. With this in mind, I find myself poised over my paper, and about to write another article. Yup, you guessed it. Another one about climbing around on Machu Picchu, in my favorite place in the world, one more time. Don’t be mistaken. I’m not saying that there won’t be future articles on the subject, however, this is the last one for the year 2004. I try to think of ways to present it that might be more interesting. However, my memory, is what it is……..

After our hotel upgrade of the previous evening, we were up early and ready to see some sights. One thing that those of you, who have been to Machu Picchu, know, is that there are NO, late morning trains up there. If you are going, your ass will be on a train before 7:00AM. The only options you have are for the style of ride you want. They range from the local train, stopping at every village, to load and unload locals, goods and animals; to the first class train where you get an assigned seat, airplane food and some other limited comforts. Or perhaps, one class in the middle, a little less comfortable, with foodstuffs for sale while you ride.

All of the trains are riding on the same track, so it’s not like one has a better route. However, once you leave the station at Cusco, you are presented with such indescribable landscape, that you lose all track of time. I do not know how many times I have said it. But once that train pulls away, I am at complete peace. Not even Desyi can get me stirred up. I become one peaceful guy. I gaze out the window, in a trance and dream all kinds of adventures. Most about trekking along the Urubamba with the cursed Spanish on my heals. I never let them catch me. I always see myself meeting them with about 10,000 Quechua warriors in a pass somewhere, high in the Andes. Believe me when I say, that would not have been a good day for them.

Soon, we pass Andean villages, set beside terraced farmlands, raging white waters, shepherds herding their Llamas, people with colourful Andean ponchos climbing paths upward thru the Andes, all wearing the straw hats, typical of the mountains. Our train stops, rolls onto a siding, backs up, and waits for another to pass. This does not break JimboRed from his mood. In other situations, I would be raving and cursing, my bad luck, after getting on a train, that made me wait on a train siding. This time I just smiled and flashed everyone the “peace and love” sign. Oh, what visions I have lived!

We have been on the train following along the side of the Urubamba River as it twists and turns its way into the Amazon. The jungle along side of the river is dense. It is little wonder that the Conquistadors were never able to locate the fabled Lost City of the Inca (Machu Picchu). Hell you couldn’t see 5 feet into this dense twisted mass, let alone spotting something hidden a few thousand feet up in the mountain peaks. Although you have the impression that you are climbing into the mountains from Cusco to Machu Picchu, you are in fact travelling downwards.

I do not remember the exact drop from Cusco to Agua Calientes, but it is significant. From Aguas Calientes, you then board buses to climb to the top of a mountain, sticking out of the jungle. On top of this mountain sits a well hidden Machu Picchu. Even though it sits atop a mountain it is still something like 3000 feet below your starting point at Cusco. In between Cusco and Machu Picchu you pass by some big ass mountains, some of them nearing 22,000 feet. That is why, I say, that you feel like you are climbing to Machu Picchu, when in actual fact you are descending. Adventurers, who have followed the Inca trail to Machu Picchu, will tell of long hard climbs. I guess, to them, it does not feel like downhill at all.

All too soon the trip is over and we are disgorged onto the side of the tracks at Aguas Calientes. They dropped us out of the train around 10:00 am, in Aguas Calientes (hot springs). It would appear, little has changed since Deysi and I went there in early 1979. Albeit, the town has grown into a city. And the city, has now aged too the point of “well used”. The buses that transport you to the top of the mountain, are still parked along the main street. The difference is that now, there are 25 buses, where there was once 5 or 6. Now, however, there is some order to buying passage, lining up and having a seat. 25 years before, it was kind of chaotic, with everyone scrambling to secure their ticket and seating. We purchased our tickets, some water and were bussed to the top.

Unbelievably, they still had teenage boys running alongside the tourist buses from the base to the top. The bus took the 20 hairpin turns to the top, the kids ran across the hairpins and met the bus at each level. They waved and hollered, and at the end came into the bus looking for tips. At the top, the “Lodge”, that was just starting renovation in 1979, was now a middle aged tourist hotel. Furthermore, it seemed that 25 plus years had passed us by in a heart beat. Funny thing was, I didn’t feel any older. Now in 2004, I remember that same feeling, of marvel, pass over me as we came to a stop, at the top. It was mixed feelings of curiosity, wonder, apprehension and awe, churning around in my head. These were the same emotions I had experienced each time we had been there.

Once again, we pay a fee, that has doubled, since our visit in the year 2000. We pass thru the entrance and around “the” rock outcropping. Then and suddenly, you are presented with, the ruins laid out in front of you. As always, upon gazing over the ruins, I have a sensation of the air being knocked out of me. Feeling a weakness in my knees, I collapse onto the stone bench. I am guessing now, but I will bet that my mouth was hanging open and drool was starting to trickle down my chin. Soon Deysi has me back to my senses and we start our exploration of this now familiar site. This time I have Uncle J, Lupe and the two boys to listen to my monologue of Inca glory. Somehow they soon scattered in all directions. What the hell!

Perhaps this time I will try something different to describe our year 2004 tour of Machu Picchu. I am going to post a series of photos, above each one, I will try to describe what you are looking at, and what I remember about it. Maybe I can shorten this part up a bit, before everyone dies of boredom or old age while reading. Therefore I think it is appropriate to kick it off, with a photo of where we entered the ruins. Each and every time we enter here, I am humbled. The privilege of being allowed to even walk here, is truly overwhelming. I start to feel the “Peruvian” welling up inside, as I prepare to launch into another version of how I understand this place.

The next photo shows some of the spectacular sights, available from the entrance to Machu Picchu. Over time I have taken a 100 photos from here. Moreover, I could have easily put up a shack and happily lived there. Think of the unlimited tourists I would have to stop and listen to my endless bullshit. The bullshit part was not really my fault. Each time we visited, I would memorize all of the highlights. However, by our next visit, the archeologists had invariably updated their findings and the poetry had changed. Often when launching into my monologue about Machu Picchu, I have been confronted by changed facts. For this post you get the 2004 version of what could be found at Machu Picchu.

Here I tried to capture another Inca princess, that we found on the mountaintop. It appears that she is surveying her domain, much as she would have 600 years before. It was early morning near the end of July, 2004. Touring had just started for the day. As I have stated before, we have not visited all of the 7 wonders of the world, however, we have visited this wonder, 7 times. That must count for something. This time we were accompanied by Lupe, Uncle J, Drew and Thew. The boys held up quite well under the load of our relentless sight seeing.

If you are looking across Machu Picchu, to the South East, you will see another peak with some ruins at the top. This is called Hayna Picchu or young peak. It was a lookout, built by the defenders of Machu Picchu. From its vantage point, high above the jungle and overlooking Machu Picchu, sentries of the Inca’s forces could look both ways along the Urubamba River. They would see anyone approaching from the Cusco side. Or alternately, anyone trying to reach them from the Amazon Jungle side. Surprisingly I can’t think of anyone who would come looking for them. After all, they conquered and held control over most of South America, at that time. Maybe they were looking out for the conquistadores.

We started our exploration with some of the sights that we were familiar with. The first being the Torreon. Undoubtably, for those of you familiar with Inca stonework, the torreon is special. Its curved architecture was not found, often, in Inca era buildings. By now I have shown hundreds of pictures from around Peru of stonework from different periods. Very seldom do any of them include curves in walls, or circular structures. So, what is it? Interestingly, in our many visits, over the years, this structure has changed purpose. Originally, it was thought to house a jail at the bottom. Then a tomb, it was decided. A few years later it had become a place of worship for Inti, the sun god. On our trip in 2004, it was seen as an astrological observatory.

The next stop we made was at, what has been designated as a “central plaza”. It may have been just that, although to me it looked like a football pitch. Or, at the very least some form of arena. Who knows what their sport was. Maybe it was a place where you could gather on a Sunday to watch sacrifices? Whatever it was, central plaza seemed far too tame for my raging imagination. Contrary to everything I remembered and suggested to the guide, he told me, that the thinking had changed and they no longer felt the way I described. At this point, I went into a sulk and quit helping him for a while.

We kinda weaved in and out of buildings, followed pathways at random and read a map that we purchased on entry. The map came with a guide or vice versa. Each pathway, seemed to, inevitably, lead to something more spectacular than the previous spot we had stopped to gape at. Another of my favorite structures was one called the “Condor” or maybe even Temple of the Condor. Everyone said they could clearly see the shape of a condor. However, even with my wild imagination, I could not quite stretch it far enough. But in any event, along with everyone else I ooohhh’d and aaahhh’d, and agreed loudly that this was indeed a Condor.

This rock was carved in the exact image of a mountain in the background. On this day the mountain was shrouded in cloud. However, I have seen it at times when it was clear. Trust me on this, It is 100% exact duplicate of the top of that mountain. Ange is posed in front of it, to give you an idea of the size of this piece of stone. Obviously, the peak and this model of it had some real significance to the inhabitants of Machu Picchu. It could have been religious, ceremonial or something else. Over the years, as we have made subsequent visits, the story of this rock changes. Some now say, it was a place of music, poetry and meditation. My bet, was ceremonial, and I still feel that way today.

The next piece we visited was the one and only wall on all of Machu Picchu that showed any effects of earthquake damage. Remember, the Inca’s craftsmen used no mortar between building blocks. The craftsmanship was so precise that in most places, a razor blade could not be fit into a joint, between two rocks. Also remember this was done using bronze tools. No steel or modern alloys were used. No wheel or mechanical implements were available. The fact is that millions of stones were somehow carved and piled up, as buildings, walls, terraces or monuments. And yet very few have ever been dislodged by the forces of nature. Bloody incredible you might say. I can only agree to that.

Unquestionably, one of my favorite spots to visit is at the very top of the city side of the ruins. It is a place where a monument was carved, out of the stone that lay there. It is named Inti Huatana. To this monument, the Sun (Inti) was tied. Thus ensuring good crops, dictating both planting, as well as, harvesting times. Basically it was constructed, exactly, along the sight lines of the solstice. Some say it might have been nothing more than an ass kicking “sun dial”. Whatever it was, it was incredible. I read what I have written and wonder just how much I got right, and how much I have missed.

Then we visited a place that mystifies me to this day. During our visit in 2004, I recall our guide saying, that, they thought this was a place of worship. But, in fact, no one had an exact answer. If I fast forward to a time 12 years later during another visit, I believe they now think it is a Royal Tomb. I like to write about the time and the place, that we are in for each article. Jumping ahead, does me no good. Because, I start to doubt anything that I remember from our earlier visits. I am ok with, this being, a place of worship. However, aside from that, this place was an example of the craftsmanship of the time. Many of the special sights we viewed were carved from huge slabs of rock.

We walked around, in and out, up and down and each turn presented something magical. Then we came across this example of Inca stonework. Once again, the narrative had changed, over the years. What was once thought of as some sort of ceremonial stones, was, in 2004, now considered a communal place to grind your corn, or alfalfa. The guide was telling us that, some now think these stones were in the middle of a reservoir. And in the rainy season this reservoir filled with water. Because the Inca and his peoples had no written language. They used a “quipu”, consisting of a series of strings tied in knots, to record their life. Of course, once they had conveyed whatever message they held, the strings were untied and reused. Thus, no remaining written record survived.

I could go on and on, but at the risk of losing everyone, I will finish with just a couple more interesting thoughts. The next picture is just one of the hundreds of canals built to transport water to the fields and into the housing areas. Remember we were high up on a mountain and the closest water source we saw was in the river, a few thousand feet below. How in hell they ever got water up there is beyond me. I remember, our guide, told us that the new thinking is from a water source, high up in a peak, at the back of Machu Picchu. He says that maybe the water flowed downward from there. However it happened it was a hell of an engineering feat.

This next photo is a view of the terracing where crops were planted, on the side of a mountain. Incredibly in this impossible terrain, the exact method of farming has been used in the Andes for thousands of years. Using a system of dams and locks, the Andean farmer could move water from a valley floor, up the side of a mountain. In much the same manner as water traffic is moved thru locks upriver, and over escarpments in modern times. Undeniably, this is another engineering marvel, not necessarily, a product, of these times, but indeed, used extensively during this period.

Another amazing place to visit was the Guardian House. It was at one of the highest points on Machu Picchu. From there, the whole vista of the ruins was spread out below you. On the day of our tour in 2004, we did not climb the steps up to here. The boys were starting to get tired. Uncle J, however, did climb up that way and got very close to the top, if not all of the way there. The rock that you can see on the side of the Guardian House, was believed to be of religious significance. Something like a spot where deceased nobles, were embalmed, or prepared, for the after world.

One last photo and then I will stop this 2004 tour of Machu Picchu. Trust me, we had four cameras and a video recorder taking pictures of everything we saw. I could easily show 500 or more photos of this magnificent site. The last photo I want to share, is of the Temple of the Three Windows. Although this is one of the sights we visited in the first part of our tour, I have chosen it last because of its unique design and purpose. It is a perfect example of the trapezoidal shape, used often in stonework from this period. Apparently the windows are entranceways to the three dimensions of the Inca life; earth, heaven and underworld. Maybe.

OK, one last, last photo. This one is looking over the back of Machu Picchu and following the Urubamba River as it snakes off into the Amazon Jungle. It flows in the direction of another recently discovered Lost City of the Inca, deep in the jungle. At the time of this writing, the city, named Vilcabamba, was just coming to prominence as a destination. In the past it was often confused with Machu Picchu, by some historians. Not by ol’ Jimbored though. Anyway, what I am attempting to show with this photo is a power generating station, built on a mountain over the Urubamba River. I swear it was not there when we visited in 2000, with C and the Kiwi.

For this post, I tried to capture some of the individual pieces that we found so spectacular. Rather than, showing the big wide landscapes of Machu Picchu, which I was sure, everyone has seen many times. It was intended to show things from a more individual standpoint and a little more personal. What I remember about each of these pieces came from the guide, who accompanied us for the first hour. OR from the many pictures we took. Some of which we captioned, THANK GOD. As I have said many times, each time we returned to this magnificent place, the information about each sight had been updated. This either, by finding more archeological information; OR by hiring a better POET. Finally, I leave you here July 27, 2004.